How Relay Attacks Steal Keyless Cars in Under 60 Seconds — And the One Thing That Stops Them | LockCar
Vehicle Security

How relay attacks steal keyless cars in under 60 seconds — and the one thing that stops them

No broken windows. No alarm. No key. Your car can be gone before you hear anything. Here’s exactly how thieves do it — and why most security advice won’t save you.

A car is stolen in England and Wales every 3 to 4 minutes. In 70% of those thefts, no key was used, no window was broken, and no alarm was triggered. The thieves were in and out in under a minute — and they’ll be long gone before you realise your car is missing.

This isn’t science fiction. This is what’s happening on driveways across the UK every single night. And the frightening part? Factory security — the immobiliser your car came with, the keyless entry system the manufacturer is so proud of — was simply not designed to stop it.

In this article, I’m going to show you exactly how relay attacks work, why they’re almost impossible to detect, and the one mechanical solution that thieves genuinely cannot get around.

130k vehicles stolen in the UK last year (ONS, 2025)
70% of modern thefts use relay attacks or CAN injection (ABI, 2024)
60s average time from approach to driving away — no alarm, no keys

What is a relay attack?

A relay attack is a method of car theft that exploits the way keyless entry and keyless start systems work. Your car’s key fob constantly broadcasts a low-power radio signal. When that signal gets close enough to your car, the car recognises it and unlocks — that’s the convenience feature you paid for.

A relay attack amplifies and relays that signal over a much longer distance than it was designed to reach. The thieves don’t need your key. They just need to be near it — even through the walls of your home.

Relay attack illustration showing how thieves intercept keyless car signal

How a relay attack bridges the gap between your key and your car.

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The relay device used to do this costs less than £50 on the open market. Two people, a handful of electronics, and less than a minute of your driveway. That’s all it takes.

How relay attacks work — step by step

Here is what a professional car theft team actually does. This is worth understanding in detail, because once you see how simple it is, you’ll understand why the standard advice — “put your keys in a Faraday pouch” — barely scratches the surface.

1

Surveillance — they’ve already picked your car

Thieves typically scout an area first. They’re looking for high-value keyless vehicles: BMW 3 Series, Range Rovers, Mercedes C-Class, Audi Q5s. These are the most targeted models in the UK. If you drive one, you’re already on a mental list.

2

Person A approaches your house

One thief walks up to your front door or window — often at 2 or 3am. They carry a relay amplifier device. Your key fob is probably in your hallway, on a hook, or in a bowl near the door. The device picks up the key’s signal through your wall. Some devices can do this from up to 100 metres away.

3

Person B stands at your car

The second thief stands at your vehicle holding a relay receiver. The two devices communicate with each other, extending your key’s signal across the distance between your house and your car. Your car’s security system cannot tell the difference between a real key and this relayed signal.

4

The car unlocks. The engine starts.

Your car receives what it believes is a valid key signal. It unlocks. Person B gets in, presses the start button, and the engine starts. No force, no alarms, no glass breaking. The car drives away as if the authorised driver is in it.

5

Gone in under 60 seconds

From the moment they arrive to the moment the car disappears around the corner: under a minute. In most cases, the owner doesn’t discover the theft until the next morning. By then, the car is typically in a shipping container or stripped for parts.

“They can be in and out in seconds without a single window being smashed or alarm being triggered. I rushed downstairs and confirmed it was indeed my car that had been stolen. I spent from 10:30pm until 2:30am searching every back street — in complete shock.” — UK car owner, PistonHeads forum

How common is this in the UK?

Relay attacks went from 14% of UK car thefts in 2019 to more than 58% by 2023, according to ABI data. In 2024, insurers paid out £1.24 billion in vehicle theft claims. The technology has become cheap, accessible, and widespread — and it’s accelerating.

The most targeted vehicles are exactly the ones you’d expect: premium and keyless models that attract thieves because of their resale value and the simplicity of the method.

“I know certain cars are hot with thieves. You visit Birmingham or London, park up, and you wonder if it’ll still be there when you come back.”

— UK driver, Evoque Owners Club

“After the theft I worked out that the £2,700 outlay on security would have saved me money — my insurance on 3 vehicles is now going to skyrocket for 5 years, costing nearly £10,000 extra.”

— UK car owner, automotive forum

The financial fallout goes well beyond the value of the car. Insurance premiums increase for years after a claim. Your no-claims bonus is gone. And with only 40% of stolen vehicles ever recovered — often damaged or stripped — the emotional cost is significant too.

Empty driveway at night where a car was stolen - the aftermath of a relay attack

The device that costs £50 and steals £50,000 cars.

What doesn’t protect you against relay attacks

Before we talk about what works, let’s be clear about what doesn’t — because there’s a lot of genuinely bad advice circulating online.

Faraday pouches and signal-blocking boxes

These work — but only if your key is inside them. If your key is on a hook in the hallway, on a kitchen counter, or in a coat pocket by the door, it’s broadcasting a live signal. Most people who own a Faraday pouch don’t use it consistently. And even if you do, the pouch does nothing once a thief has already gained access using a brief signal window.

Steering wheel locks

A visible deterrent. Experienced thieves will cut through a steering wheel column lock in under 90 seconds. They also make your car less attractive than the neighbour’s — which helps until you live next to someone who’s already taken the advice.

Your factory immobiliser

The immobiliser your car came with was designed to prevent theft without a key. The relay attack doesn’t work without a key — it works by borrowing yours. Factory systems were simply not designed to counter this. They recognise a valid key signal; a relay attack provides one.

Dashcams

Useful for insurance claims. Useless for prevention. A thief who knows what they’re doing will have your car on a transporter within the hour — footage rarely leads to recovery before the car is dismantled or exported.

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The fundamental problem: all of the above work at the signal or access level. Relay attacks have already bypassed signal security before any of these measures even activate. What you need is something that operates after the key is validated — at the physical circuit level.

The one thing that actually stops a relay attack

A physical engine immobiliser that operates independently of the car’s key system.

Here’s the logic: a relay attack makes your car think your key is present. Your car responds by unlocking and allowing the engine to start. If the attacker then presses the start button — the engine starts. Job done.

Unless there’s a second layer of protection that the relay attack knows nothing about. A physical relay immobiliser cuts the engine circuit directly — it has nothing to do with key signals, CAN bus communication, or anything the relay device can intercept or replicate.

A thief can clone your key signal perfectly. They cannot overcome a physical circuit cut. The engine simply won’t start. There’s nothing to hack, nothing to relay, and no signal to amplify.

“3 days after buying a Golf R, I was broken into. They were running out the back door as I came in from work. I had an immobiliser fitted a couple of days later. 3 weeks later they came back — different blokes — and broke in again. But they couldn’t start it. That was the moment I trusted it.” — UK car owner, automotive forum

Why a relay-based immobiliser — not a CAN bus one

Not all immobilisers are equal. There are two fundamentally different types, and the difference matters enormously — both for effectiveness and for what it does to your car’s electronics.

CAN bus immobilisers (like the widely-known Ghost) connect to the vehicle’s ECU communication network. This is the same digital network that controls your dashboard, your engine management system, and dozens of other vehicle systems. Over time, interference on this network can cause diagnostic faults, dashboard warning lights, failed starts, and in some cases put the car into limp mode. We’ve spoken to installers who’ve seen this firsthand — and who’ve switched to LockCar specifically because of it.

Relay-based immobilisers (like every product in the LockCar range) work entirely differently. They cut a physical circuit using a 20A relay — completely independent of the ECU, the CAN bus, and the car’s electronics. There is no communication with the car’s brain. No interference. No diagnostic errors. Ever.

Feature CAN Bus Immobiliser Relay Immobiliser (LockCar)
Stops relay attacks? ✓ Yes ✓ Yes
ECU interference risk ✗ Documented cases ✓ Zero — no ECU contact
Warranty risk ✗ BMW/Volvo documented issues ✓ Non-invasive installation
Circuit operation Electronic (digital signal) Physical (circuit cut)
Works if ECU is bypassed? ✗ Potentially vulnerable ✓ Independent of ECU
Installation risk Connects to live bus ✓ Relay only, no bus contact

You can read more about the CAN bus vs relay distinction — and why it matters for your car’s long-term health — in our detailed guide: CAN bus vs relay immobiliser: the difference that could cost you £800 →

What to buy — and what to look for

At LockCar, we manufacture every product ourselves — from the PCB to the firmware to the app. That means we understand exactly what’s inside each device, and we can stand behind every installation we do. Here are the products we recommend for different situations.

For individual car owners — the IC3ST

Recommended for most car owners

LockCar IC3ST — Standalone Immobiliser

App-controlled. Proximity tag (1.5m). Works on cars, vans, EVs, HGVs, motorhomes. No MCU required — completely standalone. Just walk up and it knows it’s you.

View the IC3ST → Get a free installation quote
£139product only
From £300 fitted

For premium vehicles or wider detection range — the IS357

The ↗ LockCar IS357 (£149) adds a 5-metre proximity tag range, Bluetooth, and support for smartwatch and smart ring as a trust device. Walk up wearing your watch — the car is already disarmed. No codes, no buttons.

For maximum remote control — the ONE Plus

The ↗ LockCar ONE Plus (£199) adds 4G remote access, a live camera feed, GPS+GLONASS tracking, and automatic night-time immobilisation. At 11pm (or whatever time you set), your car locks itself down — automatically, without touching the app. Comparable fleet security systems cost £1,500–2,500 per vehicle. The ONE Plus is £199.

LockCar IC3ST device with app interface showing arming/disarming controls

The IC3ST — standalone, app-controlled, and fitted in under an hour at your door.

The installation advantage

One of the most common fears people have about aftermarket security is the installer. Who is this person? Are they qualified? What happens if something goes wrong?

At LockCar, there’s no separation between the manufacturer and the installer. Victor designed the device, built it, and will come to your door to fit it. If anything ever goes wrong — which it won’t, because we know every component — there is one phone number. The person who answers it built your device. That combination doesn’t exist anywhere else in this market at this price.

“You’re not buying a product and then finding someone to fit it. We do everything — one person, one responsibility, one call if you ever need us.” — Victor, founder of LockCar

The bottom line

Relay attacks are not a fringe concern. They’re the dominant method of modern car theft in the UK, and they’re growing. Factory security was never built to stop them. The key fob advice helps — but only if you use it perfectly, every single time.

The only reliable protection is a physical relay immobiliser that operates independently of your car’s key system. It doesn’t matter if a thief relays your key signal perfectly — the engine won’t start because the circuit is physically cut, and the relay device has no way to know that or to overcome it.

If you drive a vehicle worth more than £15,000 — especially a BMW, Range Rover, Mercedes, or any other commonly targeted model — this is not optional protection any more. It’s the minimum standard.

Ready to protect your vehicle? Browse the full LockCar immobiliser range — or contact us on WhatsApp for a free recommendation and installation quote. We come to you.